Most people celebrate our national day for giving thanks with a feast that centers on the Turkey. Naturally, the turkeys have other ideas, and seek refuge on this holiday. Just as naturally, my friends and I seek Refuge to see turkeys and other birds, by spending our Thanksgiving weekend at National Wildlife Refuges. Continue reading
As every trail must reach its destination, as every tale must come to its end, so too our Adirondack adventure must draw to a close, and we must bid adieu to the carefree Adirondack life. Continue reading
Wherever my friends and I go, we try to get to the top of the highest mountain around. So on our Adirondack adventure, we were keen to get to the very top of the High Peaks. That would be Mt. Marcy, 5,344’ high. “How do we get there?” we wondered. Hike 7.4 miles through wilderness to the summit, then hike 7.4 miles back. Ok, maybe not.
Still, we were determined to get to the top of one of “The 46”, as the 46 High Peaks above 4,000’ are called. Folks who have successfully climbed all 46 are called “Adirondack 46ers.” We only had one day to get to the summit of a High Peak, and our experience on the relatively puny Pitchoff Mountain taught us not to take these mountains lightly. What to do?
Enter Whiteface Mountain, 4,867’ tall, the fifth highest in the state of New York. There’s a road that does 4,600’ of the work for you, with an elevator that takes tourists the rest of the way. How hard could it be?
Place: Adirondack Mountains, New York
Time: Early July
Dossier: Standing 5 to 6 ½ feet tall at the shoulder and weighing 600 to 1500 pounds, the Eastern Moose can be identified by its large, bulbous nose, heavy body, long spindly legs, and the enormously broad, flat antlers worn by the male of the species.
Your mission, should you choose to accept it: Join an elite team of Expeditionary Agents to track down this ungainly critter, isolate it, and shoot it. With a camera.
This will be no walk in the park. Despite its size, the Moose is not easily seen. Previous searches at Upper Saranac Lake, Tupper Lake, Bog River Falls, Simon Pond and Pitchoff Mountain have failed to produce moose. Where to next? The fate of the expedition lies in your hands.
My friends and I all had things we wanted to see and do in the Adirondacks. I wanted to kayak at sunset, and capture images of waterfalls and Common Loons in summer plumage. Don wanted to see a moose. Robb just wanted to take a walk on the wild side.
The Wild Walk at the Wild Center in Tupper Lake, that is. The Wild Center is a natural history education center with trails and a large exhibit space.
The highlight is the Wild Walk, a trail across the treetops, designed to show visitors the Adirondacks from the perspectives of different animals. There’s a spider web, an eagle’s nest, and an old hollow tree with a staircase inside, all connected at various heights off the forest floor. Just Robb’s cup of tea.
After lunch, we explored Bog River Falls. Bog River flows through the Horseshoe Wild Forest before tumbling over a set of waterfalls into Tupper Lake. The upper and lower falls can be accessed on both sides of the river. I dug out my tripod and tried my hand at some long-exposure photography.
The mountains are calling and I must go. – John Muir
It wasn’t all leisurely repose during our Adirondack retreat. There was serious mountain climbing to do. As close as we were to the High Peaks of the Adirondacks region, we couldn’t skip doing a little peak bagging of our own. But which peak?
There are 46 High Peaks in the Adirondacks, all 4000’ high or more. Many of the trails to reach their summits were too long and steep for us to tackle in a moderate day hike. Something in the 3-4 mile range was more our speed. I’d acquired a book called “Best Easy Day Hikes in the Adirondacks.” From that we chose a hike to Balanced Rock on Pitchoff Mountain. 2.5 miles, 775’ elevation gain, with a neat rock formation on an exposed bedrock ridge as the payoff. The guidebook described it as the “perfect first hike for kids…” What could go wrong?
Much of the land in Adirondack Park is designated as wilderness. No powered vehicles are allowed. Pitchoff Mountain, in the Sentinel Range Wilderness Area, would be our first foray into the wilderness. The wilderness areas may be lacking in cars, but that’s because they’re all jammed into trailhead pullouts. Our trailhead was on Route 73, across from Cascade Mountain and upper and Lower Cascade Lakes. We parked precariously along the side of the road, climbed a short steep set of steps, and plunged into the deep, shady woods.
If you’re not the lead horse, the view never changes. Don and Robb walking up the hill. The trail started right off with a good stiff incline, and already I was wondering what we’d gotten ourselves into.
After a bit, the trail leveled out, and became a nice walk in the woods. Birches and hemlocks predominated, amongst other trees. The forest floor was peppered with mushrooms.
Lycopodiums were everywhere. Sometimes called ground pines, these tiny plants look like little Christmas trees, but they’re actually a club moss. We’re quite fond of them, and get excited every time we find them in a new place.
There were so many Lycopodiums that our excitement wore off after a thousand or so.
Another surprise was finding trilliums, some just past bloom. In our neck of the woods, trilliums are spring ephemeral wildflowers that bloom in late April and early May, after which time the foliage withers and dies away. Seeing them still in leaf in early July was a treat. A few still had old flowers.
We passed some rocks on the side of the trail that led to a nice view. Back in the dark depths of the forest, rocks became more numerous and prominent. We really like to scramble over boulders and slabs, so we didn’t mind. Pitched up at a 45° angle, this terraced outcropping offered a fun trail bed.
Then the trouble started. It had been an easy walk this far. Until we found ourselves confronted by this, which I later dubbed “The Fractured Staircase.” Perhaps 30’ high, with no way around it. To the right is steep rock face, to the left an impenetrable thicket. No way to go but straight up the middle.
Not a problem for Robb, who’s part billy goat. The first step gave me fits. It was so tall I had to put my knee on it and pull myself up. The rest of the climb was accomplished carefully with hands, knees and feet. I felt a deep sense of accomplishment upon reaching the top.
I also felt out of breath, and would have welcomed a brief rest. But we quickly moved on to the next rocky challenge, and the next. In between the rocky spots, the path grew wet and mucky. These sections had to be negotiated as carefully as the rocks; get too much mud on your boots, and you’d slip dangerously scrambling over boulders.
Along the trail, I heard a rustling in the brush to my left. I looked down just in time to spot a large snake, with strongly contrasting light and dark patches. Before I could react, it slithered out of view. I like to imagine it was a timber rattlesnake, though I never did identify it.
The rock scrambles grew tougher and steeper. We began to wonder what kind of parent would consider this a “kid-friendly” hike. If I had trouble with some of these tall rocks, how could kids with short little legs manage?
Hopes began to rise when the trail dipped a little – right into a bog. We had to pick our way along fallen logs and stones to avoid getting wet boot soles.
(Full disclosure: This is a composite image of two photos that were never meant to be combined. It looks a little odd, but still gives a sense of the size of the rocky hillside.)
We like rocks, but this was ridiculous. It appeared that the trail to Balanced Rock went straight up the rock face. Kid-friendly?
This was the waterfall that distracted me so driving past that first night.
Wide open bedrock is what we’d climbed all this way to see – the open rock and boulder formations at Balanced Rock, covered with wildflowers, lichens and blueberries. The view of the summit of Pitchoff Mountain itself beyond Balanced Rock, and the surrounding High Peaks, is said to be amazing.
But now we were faced with an obstacle too much for Don and I to surmount. We’d been hiking long enough to get tired, though we’d not gone more than a mile. I might have been able to continue after a break, but I knew we’d have to come back down that same rock face. For us, this was the point of no return.
Back down the mountain we went.
Never let it be said going down a mountain is easy. It’s not; at times I find it more difficult than going up. I was relieved when we came to the Fractured Staircase, knowing it was the last of the truly challenging bits.
This is looking down from the top. Kid-friendly? I don’t know about that, but I took my cue from the younger set – and slid down on the seat of my pants. That’s a favorite technique of mine when confronted with a steep hillside. I figure it’s a lot farther to fall from a standing position than a sitting one.
I was deeply disappointed to fall short of our goal. Even more, I feel we missed something spectacular at Balanced Rock. But with time, I’ve come to see it not as a big challenge I failed, but a series of smaller challenges I met and actually enjoyed. Don’s always saying it’s about the journey, not the destination. This time, the mountain and the forest were destination enough.
It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves. – Sir Edmund Hillary
Make your heart like a lake, with a calm, still surface, and great depths of kindness. – Lao Tzu
Mountains are hard, stony, unforgiving. Nothing comes easily on a mountain. Gentle paths are soon strewn with rocks, small boulders must be climbed, and always the trail goes up, up, up. Until it goes down, and usually that’s worse. No question, mountains are hard work.
This summer, my friends and I answered the call of New York’s Adirondack Mountains. Forty-six peaks over 4000’. Lots of hiking and climbing and days filled with vigorous activity beckoned.
This year’s destination came with a bonus – a lake.
Lakes are soft, fluid, soothing. Doing nothing comes very easily on a lake. You want to linger, trail your fingers through the cool water, listen to the cry of the loons, soak up the sunset. The living is easy on a lake.
This was a BIG lake. Our rental house perched on the shores of Upper Saranac Lake. With 37 miles of shoreline, that’s a lot of lake. The heck with peak-bagging! We were looking forward to relaxing by the water. It would be restful. Restorative. Carefree.
Adirondack Park is a long drive from Philadelphia, north through three mountain ranges. Our own Poconos, the Catskills, and finally the Adirondacks. The High Peaks rose around us, cascading long ribbons of waterfalls into narrow lakes, thoroughly distracting the driver.
Concentration returned on the three miles of twisting dirt road that led to our home away from home deep in the woods. Ahhh!
I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in tune once more. – John Burroughs
A Common Merganser swam into view. With her were five fluffy ducklings. Two got a ride on mama’s back, dozing sleepily, carefree. The others paddled along in her wake. I watched as the lovely little family passed in front of me and disappeared into the distance. I wondered where they were going? Maybe Mom knew a good diner for breakfast?
The Merganser story took a turn two mornings later, after a nighttime thunderstorm with winds and heavy rains. Now Mama Merganser returned – with just one duckling in tow.
I told myself that the time had come for the other ducklings to be out on their own, or perhaps this was a different family altogether. But in my heart, I know that’s not so. Not all the young ones of any species survive their youth.
If there’s water, there must be kayaking… I’d dreamed for months about long solo paddles in the early morning or evening, sneaking up on loons, perhaps even catching a moose as it drank at the edge of the water. One look at the dock crushed that dream. I’ve yet to master the art of dockside kayak launches. Even with three of us, it’s a challenge. Alone? No, that wasn’t going to happen.
However, my friends agreed to try the two kayaks out with me one still morning.
Bird feeders in the back yard drew lots of feathered friends. Some were birds we don’t get to see often. Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Black-capped Chickadees (we get Carolina Chickadees) and lots of Purple Finches. Ruby-throated hummingbirds visited.
The time was rare when there was no squirrel under the feeders. Not much bigger than a chipmunk, red squirrels are much smaller than our common gray squirrels. These jaunty little fellows have a white ring around their eyes and a black stripe along the side of their bellies. We never grew tired of watching their antics.
Did someone mention chipmunks? Yes, they visited from time to time, too. Tiny but fierce battles broke out between the two tribes when a chipmunk and a squirrel both wanted the prime real estate. Surprisingly, these war games usually ended with the squirrel fleeing the chipmunk.
We looked for the Milky Way one evening. We didn’t see it. Perhaps it was not yet dark enough. Still, there were an amazing number of stars. I can only imagine the sky in the middle of the night, when we were lost in our dreams, in our lakeside reverie.
Oh! For the lazy lakeside living! We could have happily passed the days by the water’s edge, relaxed and carefree.
The mountains are calling and I must go. – John Muir